With all the hype about the new calibers coming out especially the short magnums one can see why a neophyte would get confused about which caliber to choose from when picking a hunting rifle. There are a couple of things to think about. First of all no animal has grown armor plating on their bodies since guns were invented. Another fact is bullets are better designed then a generation ago which may factor into your selection. For instance I can remember Elmer Keith and others complaining about the 30-06 being ineffective on elk. Reading and studying those old accounts showed that the bullet failed rather then the power of the 30-06. In his day Elmer was probably right the 30-06 didn’t make a particularly good elk round. That would apply to similar calibers that were out. You needed a bigger caliber with a heavier bullet that could penetrate a large animal. With today’s modern bullets I don’t think that anyone would doubt that a 30-06 could cleanly take an elk given a good bullet and proper bullet placement. Many people believe that the 270 and 280 make good elk rounds given proper bullet design and placement. Rifles meant for elk and larger game must be powerful enough to drive a good bullet into the boiler room of the animal in order to insure a successful hunt. This should be true regardless of the angle and distance within reason. If you can’t shoot a rifle powerful enough for the job then you shouldn’t hunt that particular game.

Most game is shot within 200 yards most are closer so you don’t need a super duper long magnum for your hunting needs. There are exceptions such as antelope and possibly some other western hunting. Frequently they are shot at ranges in excess of 300 yards. Since antelope are small animals seldom weighing over 120 pounds a large caliber isn’t necessary. For antelope a 25-06 or 264 mag are good choices. They are flat shooting and have enough bullet weight to take down an antelope. Heavy crosswinds may dictate a heavier caliber.

There are some criteria to think about when choosing a hunting rifle. First of all what game is to be hunted. Is it going to be a specialized rifle or are you going to use it for everything. To a certain extent how much are you going to spend? Then there is the question of how much recoil can you stand. If you are afraid of the gun it’s not going to do you much good out in the field. I have seen on several occasions someone who had too much gun and missed a shot on their trophy. Price while a factor shouldn’t be a major thing in selecting your rifle. A good quality rifle can be bought for a little over $300.00 on up to whatever you are willing to pay. Essentially they all shoot the same but the pricier ones look better. Wood always looks better then synthetics but isn’t as durable or weather resistant.

Personally I don’t believe that you should use the minimum caliber for the game hunted. Yes I know you can kill a deer with a 243 but I often wonder how many get away wounded as opposed to the ones who get killed. I have seen on various occasions deer shot with those minimal calibers get away even when properly hit. I have helped track them down and couldn’t find them. A good friend of mine shot a nice buck in North Carolina with a 257 Roberts. It was a top handload with a 120 grain Speer Grand Slam. Two good hits on the deer at 130 yards failed to bring it down. We never recovered it in spite of a couple hours of tracking. Whitetail deer are not large animals as a whole but they can be tough to bring down especially once the adrenalin gets going. I witnessed a deer in Pa that was shot several times with a 35 Remington and kept running. Finally he stumbled and one of his antlers got caught on a tree root or he might still be running. My choice for a light deer rifle would be a 7mm 08 or a 7×57 both with good handloads. I would consider them to be near the minimum calibers used by most hunters. Deer as well as all game animals deserve a clean and humane death. Recoil would be doable and there should be enough power given proper bullet placement.

While nice you don’t need a rifle that is capable of ¼” groups at 100 yards. First of all most game is shot at closer ranges. Then no one can shoot quarter inch groups from a hunting position. I have yet to see a game animal give the hunter an opportunity to set up a bench rest prior to getting off a shot. A decent 30-30 has enough accuracy to handle most shots. Most of that so called quarter inch shooting being reported is a lot of bull and doesn’t benefit the average hunter. The best thing to do is practice with your rifle from various hunting positions and expected ranges. A deer’s vital area is the size of a plate so there is some room for error. If your rifle will put 3 shots into an inch or so at 100 yards then you are good to go.

Magnum rifles are ok for the larger big game animals provided that you can shoot them well. Let’s face it they kick like hell and are noisy. You can port the barrel to reduce recoil but then you risk blowing out your ear drums. Who wants to walk through the woods with ear protection? The first shot is the most important in a hunting situation and often makes or breaks the hunt. If you miss or wound an animal he isn’t going to stick around while you have target practice. Frequently in the woods he is out of sight in one leap. So if you have a gun that hurts your shoulder or ears to shoot it failure will probably be your bedfellow. You just don’t need a 300 Ultra Mag to hunt deer in the woods. A 30-30 will kill it just as dead. I did use a 300 Winchester magnum on an antelope hunt which on the face of it may seem like an over kill. However the guide informed me that the shot may very well be over 300 yards and there were crosswinds to deal with. As it turned out that extra power came in handy. The one I shot was 360 yards according to the rangefinder and there was a crosswind left to right of 12 to 15 miles per hour. Magnum rifles also demand premium bullets for best results. The extra velocity and spin on a standard bullet will cause it to come unglued when it hits an animal especially at close range. An acquaintance of mine wanted to hunt elk with his 8mm Remington magnum which is a fine elk gun. However he used a 150 grain bullet driven to about 3700 feet per second which hit his elk and exploded on the shoulder enabling the trophy to get away. I tried to get him to use a 200 or 220 grain bullet but he wouldn’t hear it. Had he listened he would have a nice trophy on the wall instead of a bad memory. Magnums are good for long range and dangerous game given proper bullet type and placement.

Another thing to think about is fit. The stock should be of proper length and it should be balanced to shoot and carry comfortably. It should be neither too heavy nor too light. You should be able to shoot it comfortably from any anticipated hunting position. A couple of years ago I bought a Ruger all weather in 30-06 because my other favorite carrying rifle seemed to be getting heavier. Perhaps it’s because I am getting older and didn’t want that extra weight. If I plan on walking a distance the lighter rifle comes along. Another plus is the 30-06 can take anything I plan on hunting any time soon.

There has been much confusion about the benefits hunting. Although well intentioned, many of the perspectives of no hunters overlook the fact that generally accepted wildlife management practices, which include hunting, have science as their basis. Also unnoticed are the benefits that hunting provides in helping to maintain a balanced ecosystem. I believe there is value for all of us in understanding
hunting’s uses in the modern era.

It is an unpleasant fact that every living organism must nourish itself by consuming another living organism in order to survive. Mother Nature has designed a survival matrix of predator and prey relationships for every species on our planet. We see this when the rabbit takes the life of a plant for sustenance, the hawk takes the life of the rabbit, and the plant is nourished by micro fauna that decompose the fallen hawk.

History has documented that when there is an over abundance of animals in an ecosystem much of the plant and animal life will die-off in mass numbers until equilibrium is restored. For example, too many deer will over-browse plant life in a habitat, which leaves less food available for other animals that depend on plants for their survival. The wildlife populations are then forced to leave the habitat in search of food, and if no sustainable habitat is available (such as in urban areas or habitats that are already heavily populated) they eventually die from malnutrition or disease. Mother Nature may be cruel in her ways but she is certainly effective.

In many states there is visible proof that wildlife populations are out of balance. Deer are hit by cars and are forced into our yards in search of food. Geese bbecome so plentiful that they foul our water supplies and living areas. Bears become so abundant that they encroach on communities making it unsafe for both man and beast. To control this problem towns resort to hiring professionals to destroy deer, or call the DEP to have geese gassed during their molt when they are flightless and vulnerable, or turn to trained personnel to kill bears that encroach on urban settings.

More than a century ago conservationists, biologists, and wildlife professionals began to transform hunting, which was becoming less important for acquiring food with the advent of the institutionalized slaughter of animals and their distribution to food markets, into a tool for maintaining equilibrium in habitats. To this day biologists and wildlife professionals scientifically determine the optimal number of each game animal in an ecosystem and then establish quotas or “bag limits” on populations that exceed the limits. Hunters may only hunt the species of animals that are assigned by wildlife professionals and must abide by the established bag limits, therefore culling only the “surplus” animals.

Since humans are part of the predator prey equation we also depend on other living organisms for our survival. Hunting of surplus animal populations is also of benefit because it satisfies the original purpose of hunting — sustenance. If a hunter doesn’t hunt he or she will ultimately go to the food market and buy beef, poultry, fowl, pork, or some other form of life that has been slaughtered for market. The tradeoff is that when a huntsman or huntswoman hunts a surplus animal he or she is not only helping to maintain balance in the ecosystem but is also choosing to be nourished by wildlife rather than by institutionally slaughtered animals.

It should be noted that hunters provide 75% of federal and state funding used by the agencies, scientists and other personnel that are responsible for the management of our country’s wildlife. This is done through purchases of licenses, permits, wildlife stamps,
and by a special tax on select hunting products. Additionally, a large percentage of wildlife and habitat preservation is funded by the private donations of hunters since most are members of conservation organizations.

Although humans may not be able to change the unforgiving design of the food web, or be able to fully eliminate Mother Nature’s extreme measures for keeping our ecosystem in balance, hunting has proven to be a purposeful, efficient, and effective facilitator of our world’s natural order. It minimizes the devastation that is caused by over abundant animal populations while at the same time fulfilling man’s requirement for sustenance.

One of the best ways to remember your turkey hunting experience is by putting it on film. Whether it’s pictures or video, both offer the ability for you to relive your hunt for years to come.

Below, the National Wild Turkey Federation’s staff of vidographers and photographers has compiled some tips to help you get started. Keep these tips in mind when photographing your trophy longbeard or videoing your child’s first hunt, you’ll have memories to share for a lifetime.

“These are the mistakes we see made the most in the field when videoing or photographing a hunt,” said Matt Lindler, photography director for the NWTF. “By following these tips, you can make the experience one you can relive time after time.”

Video Magic

From blown setups to tagging trophy longbeards, NWTF videographer Brian Godfrey has seen it all through the viewfinder of his camera. Here are some of his tips to shoot great hunting videos:

• Try to video with the sun on your subject.
• Turkey hunting is filled with a bounty of natural sounds. Be sure you have a good microphone with at least a 10-foot cord so you can place the microphone in front of your setup, which will help you pick up the natural sounds and not the sound of your hands operating the camera.
• Use a tripod! Your footage will look smooth. Avoid tripods with braces between the legs. The braces can keep you from sliding under your camera and getting great, comfortable shots.
• Prepare to film hunts by practicing around the house. Cats, dogs, or even your kids playing outside will work.
• Don’t zoom in and out too much. Get on your subject and stay there.
• Be sure to cover all of your camera gear with camouflage.
• Have preplanned cues for your hunters such as a word or signal to know when you’re ready for them to shoot.
• If your camera has a manual focus selection, use it. Turkeys or deer walking through grass or in the woods will confuse the auto focus.
• Remember, a small field or food plot open to the sky will allow your camera to gather more light than hunting in the cover of the woods. This tactic will buy extra minutes early in the morning or at the end of the day.

After the Hunt — Capture it in Photos

NWTF photography director Matt Lindler has taken photos in all different types of terrain and settings. From magazine shoots to trophy photographs, here are his tips for capturing the moment on film.

“Don’t be afraid to take a lot of photos,” Lindler said. “Film is the cheapest investment in nature photography. Compare $5 a roll to the $5,000 you might spend on a lens.”

Composition

• Get close to your subject.
• Use the golden rule of “thirds.” Look through the viewfinder, then divide the scene into thirds horizontally and vertically. Place the subject’s eye or other focal point where these lines intersect.
• Clean up the clutter. Make sure trash and other visual clutter is removed from the scene.
• Watch the background and avoid power lines, telephone poles, etc. Make sure foreign objects do not look like they’re growing out of your subject’s head.
• Take photos that show action and illustrate a point (putting a tag on your animal, walking toward the downed game).
• When people are in photos, focus on their eyes or face and try to avoid taking photos where people have their backs to the camera.
• Encourage your subjects to show pleasant facial expressions. Smiles are great!

Lighting

• Shoot with the sun at your back.
• Shoot in the early morning or late afternoon for softer, warmer light.
• Use fill flash to eliminate shadows.

Film

• Shoot 100 ASA print or slide film.
• Brace yourself, so you’re steady when you take the picture.
• Shoot a camera like a rifle; use a rest, watch your breathing and squeeze the trigger.
• If you don’t have anything else to rest the camera on, brace your elbows against your stomach.
• Squeeze the shutter release; camera shake causes blurred images.

Digital

• Use a camera with at least 3 megapixels of resolution.
• Avoid using digital zoom. Choose a camera that has a higher optical zoom
• Always set the camera to the highest resolution possible.
• Set the camera at the lowest compression available.
• If available, shoot Raw or Tiff formats for the highest quality photos.

Hunting photography

• Search for an exciting background (gnarled tree trunks, rocks, flowering trees, etc.).
• Keep the animal in good shape after the kill. If you’re going to photograph your trophy turkey, for instance, make sure the feathers are in good shape.
• Try to avoid posing the hunter behind the animal. Use the exciting background to pose the animal and hunter.
• Clean blood off the animal and subject. Place an animal’s tongue in its mouth or remove it all together.
• Keep firearm muzzles and arrows in a safe direction and the action open.
• Don’t be afraid to turn your camera on a vertical axis. A scene may look better vertically than it does horizontally. Shoot both ways.
• Centered is not always better. Sometimes the focus of an image looks better when it is not centered in the frame.
• Vary your shooting angle. Shoot a scene from as many angles as you feasibly can. This not only means from all sides, but also at different heights.
• Experiment with different exposure settings. Shooting at different exposure settings above and below the camera’s meter reading is called bracketing. Sometimes your camera’s meter can be fooled by extremes in light and shadow.
• Shoot at different focal lengths. Zoom in and out on a subject. Get close-ups as well as wide shots.
• By following these helpful hints, you’ll be on your way to taking photos and videos like the pros. Plus, you’ll capture memories to share for years to come.

I am often asked “what gun case type is best for me — plastic, metal, or a classic presentation case (leather and or canvas built around a wooden frame).” The answer when choosing a gun case is… It depends what and where you are going to shoot.

Are you going to be traveling extensively via airline? If so, you had better check out a metal case. A good metal case, and I mean a really good one, does seem to withstand the abuse dished out, the exterior of the gun case that is. I have often wondered about what is really going on inside the case. You know, where what you are trying to protect — your favorite gun — is waiting.

Using common sense, if a forceful blow is received to the exterior of the case, what gun case type is going to transfer the least amount of energy toward the interior of the case and on to your prized shotgun, rifle or handgun? Well, my guess is, and keep in mind engineering was not my college major, a wooden box case, and then a plastic case, and in last place would be metal.

I once read an article from an online shooting publication where they tested various types of shotgun cases. I must confess to being very surprised when the presentation case (leather and canvas covering a wooden box) actually held up better than the brand name metal and plastic cases. When flying, however, I suspect most presentation case locks and hinges would succumb to the brutality of airline baggage systems.

Okay, the bottom line on my “common sense approach to what gun case type is best”: If you are on a very tight budget, go with plastic and leave your favorite gun at home. If you are going to travel on the airlines… choose a metal gun case. Make sure it is a really well constructed case and that the interior is lined with a thick, high density foam to absorb the hits your case will take in baggage handling.

On the other hand, if you are a target shooter, whether it’s a breakdown shotgun, handgun, or rifle, you most likely travel by car to your favorite shooting club or the next shooting event. These are the times when you may have your prized, straightest shooting gun along. You want a case that locks, provides protection from accidents when traveling around, (usually from trying to carry too many boxes of ammo, water bottles, shooting glasses and such, in one hand). Also, you want a case that shows you have a really nice gun inside and that you are serious about your sport.

In my case, I am not about to put a $2500 gun in a plastic gun case. Sheesh, that’s like going to prom in my barn boots (okay I did that but I have matured, well, maybe not …you’d better think of your own analogy). I also want the compartments in my gun case to hold all the stuff that keeps my gun in good shape… places for my bore snake, chokes, oil, and wrenches.

In summary, choosing a gun case really depends on where you plan to take your gun. For most serious shooters I believe a wooden frame presentation case covered in a canvas and or leather combination is the best choice. There are many different configurations and price options available. For 95% of your shooting experiences this gun case type, with its good looks, function, and durability, will protect and enhance your favorite gun.

Within the borders of a 7 acre orchard and hobby farm is a plum tree, a pear tree, and several types of apple trees. Two out buildings, a two stall garage, two slant oil wells and a 2 story farm house. The land is owned by the nicest christian couple. A man like me couldn’t ask to meet better people.
Earlier this year I found I had permission to bow hunt for whitetailed deer on these 7 acres. I scouted the property and thought, “Wow what an opportunity!”. I found the deer to be amazingly bold. Walking right through the yard in broad daylight. Since not hunting for over 10 years, I thought I had found the perfect spot to hunt.
I arrived the morning of opening day. I’d say aroung 5:00 AM. I waited and I waited. I sat in my treestand until evening light became too dark to hunt. I saw nothing. Not one single deer. I showed up the next day. Then the next. I showed up for two straight weeks.
Finally at the next to the last day of this first two weeks I turned to the north from my treestand and spotted a large doe along with a small yearling. Both nice animals and healthy. Both walking straight for my tree. As the doe made her way towards me I drew back twice just to get over the sudden rush of adrenalin. Hoping to be ready when she presented herself to my waiting broadhead.
Finally after ten minutes of her walking, stopping, eating, walking, stopping, eating. She walked right out into an opening large enough to park a hay wagon. Giving me the best broad side view of a deer I have ever had. I drew back. I looked through my peep site on my bowstring. I found my thirty yard sight pin. I held the shot. I held it a bit longer. Just as I was ready to release the arrow. The doe turned and looked over her back at the yearling.
I thought to my self. Jim, we have a lot of season left. Let’s wait for a buck. So I relaxed my bow string and sat back down in my stand.
Needless to say this doe and yearling have been the only deer I have seen so far this season. My freezer is still empty and I wish I had taken the shot.
Oh well. I’m only 45yrs old and have a couple of seasons left in me. Since not being able to share any of the venison with the land owners. I have left a couple of fresh steelhead and whitefish with them.
Here’s to next year. And the year after that.
Jim Wilson
Manistee County
Michigan

Do you have a weekend without anything to do or a weekend when you don’t want to do anything? I know what I’d do. I would pack up the truck and head for the woods. Sitting by a camp fire with your favorite people solves many problems, so you shouldn’t wait too long between fires. My favorite thing to do on a weekend is to camp. Are you looking for an easy way to camp? How about car camping? I love it!

First of all, let’s define car camping? When you can drive your vehicle right up to the camp site, that’s called car camping. Even if you’re driving a truck it’s still called car camping. The advantage of car camping versus primitive or base camping is that you can take anything you want with you. If you want to take a hammock or huge grill or a stack of magazines, you can. Load your car or truck with food, clothing, shelter, bedding, games and anything else you want to take along and get going. It’s really that simple.

So where can you car camp? Just about anywhere. National and state parks don’t allow car camping except in designated campgrounds, other than that, you can car camp virtually anywhere on public lands. The internet is loaded with websites that can help. Start looking at www.backcountrytoys.com/education.htm. Our Education Center is loaded with up to date camping information.

Here are some things I take along when I car camp: hiking gear, bird watching binoculars and field guide, a radio for music and weather updates, tent, cot, sleeping bag, grill, shovel, fire starting gear, lots of food and drink, first aid kit, a stack of reading material — this can also be used for building a fire — such as newspapers and magazines, rain gear, hammock, dogs and dog food, folding chairs and table, stove, table service and utensils.you get the idea. I take all that I need to be comfortable. If you don’t have these things, don’t fret, all you really need are food, shelter and common sense.

Camping is a great way to renew and strengthen relationships. Take your spouse, your children, your siblings, your friends. Without the distractions of television, telephone, internet and alarm clocks, you will have a wonderful time. I’ll always remember something a dear friend of mine told me years ago, “Time spent in our great outdoors is time added to your life.” That sounds like a good reason to go. Use this information and you’ll Get It Right The First Time.

Even though winter — with all its snow, wind, and cold — is definitely upon us, it’s never too early to start thinking about camping this spring or summer. And for those outdoor enthusiasts who won’t wait for the snow to melt before setting out this winter, there is no better time than now to review a few useful tips to remember when planning your camp menu.

Consider the duration of your trip. Plan on eating about as much while you’re camping as you eat when you’re at home. If you’re car camping and you have the extra space, it might not hurt to take a little extra food; but if you’re packing it in, every ounce counts, especially on long hikes. Be sure not to under pack your camping food — the only thing longer than a 20-miler is a 20-miler when you’re hungry. Starving your body while doing rigorous exercise, like hiking, could have adverse affects on your health.

Plan a camping food menu that you’re willing to eat. Camping food for many people has come to mean granola, oatmeal, and granola. I like them as much as the next guy, but I’m not willing to ruin my week in the woods by packing food I don’t like. There are many companies now offering a huge selection of dishes, most of them very tasty, which just require water — everything from roast beef and potatoes to tuna casserole. Don’t discount instant oatmeal and granola as tasty options. Just remember, just because you’re leaving civilization behind doesn’t mean you shouldn’t eat what you like.

Nutrition, nutrition, nutrition. You’re number one priority when you’re camping should be to have a good time and enjoy nature — something that is difficult to do when you’re sick and exhausted. Be sure to take camping food with you that will keep you well fed and your energy level up. Energy bars and gels don’t usually weigh a lot and pack a serious nutrition punch, making them great for the trail. If you don’t cook a lot at home and don’t plan to while you’re camping, do yourself a favor and eat more than candy bars and licorice. Just about anyone can boil water, so just about anyone can take some prepared camping foods on their trip and eat well.

Switch things up. If you’ve had the same thing for lunch for the last 20 years, ignore this paragraph. For the rest us, variety is important when planning for camping food. Put small amounts of different seasonings in plastic baggies — lemon pepper trout is delicious. Even if you’re going to eat oatmeal three meals a day for a week, at the very least take different flavors of oatmeal.

The price is right. It is possible to eat well when you’re camping on a tight budget. Instant oatmeal, granola bars, and pancake mix don’t usually cost very much and fill you up. Hamburger helper makes for a pretty nutritious, economic camping meal — you’ll need to make sure you have all the ingredients. Substitute powder milk for regular milk, and be sure to add enough water to make the milk and the recipe.

Go high tech. Prices on freeze dried and packaged camping food are becoming very reasonable. For less than what you would pay for it in a restaurant, you can have you’re favorite dishes — and I doubt the restaurant can compete with the view you’ll have when you’re camping or hiking. It may be a little more expensive than doing it on your own, but what prepackaged camping foods save you in time, energy, and taste more than makes up for the money.

Get out and enjoy the great outdoors. Whether you’re camping, hiking, fishing, or just hanging out in the woods for the day, with a little planning and by following these tips, I’m confident you and you’re palate will have the experience of a lifetime.

Traveling in a Recreational Vehicle is, by most accounts, a fun, relaxing and enjoyable time to create some incredible stories that your grandchildren will someday enjoy. Here are few myths and truths about vacationing in a recreational vehicle.

Myth: Getting your own RV and using it for trips and vacations will save you money. Sorry, but by the time you buy/lease/rent your RV, you probably could have flown first class and stayed at 4-star hotels. There may be exceptions such as an inexpensive tent trailer or used slide in camper for your pickup, but for the most part the extra cost and expenses (gas, insurance, etc) usually are more than any savings which you may have.

Truth: RV’ing is fun! Getting the chance to see more of the country and being in a relaxed mode can make your trip or vacation way more enjoyable experience.

Truth: Your family bonds will strengthen. This certainly has been true for me. Since everyone should be involved in the decisions, a feeling of teamwork and togetherness is enhanced.

Myth: Your family bonds will strengthen. Unfortunately, discord can happen if not all traveling members are on the same page. Did one member of the family really just want to go to Disneyland and back while the others preferred the more leisure approach? It’s best to work these issues out in advance.

Myth: There’s no planning involved. Unless you have more time on your hands than most, RVing requires just as much planning as any other vacation would. There is nothing more frustrating than pulling into an RV park late in the day with no reservations only to find them full. There is a ‘freedom from worry’ idea that RV merchants will promote that is, to say the least, overstated.

Myth: Since you are on your own schedule, nothing can spoil the trip. Unfortunately, there are plenty of things that can go wrong. In addition to the possibility of vehicle problems (engine, transmission, etc), there are numerous systems that may cause delays or, worse, cancellations of your plans. These include your water, electrical, heating/cooling and other that may cause you problems. The best solution is to become familiar with your RV before you embark on a long trip. That investment in time will pay off handsomely.

Truth: You have more control over your trip. While things can go wrong, they usually don’t. The result is that your trip will probably go as expected and you aren’t subject to airline delays, lost hotel reservations and other things over which you have no control.

Truth: There is a certain comfort in knowing that the bed you sleep in tonight will be yours. Maybe it’s not the luxurious mattress you have at home, but it’s yours and you are familiar with it. Of course, the same things applies to other personal items as well. In many ways it’s like taking an abbreviated version of your own home with you. Personally, I sleep better in my RV than I ever have in a hotel.

Personally, I love travelling in an RV. If I had to state just one thing that makes it my favorite way to vacation, it’s knowing that, while I may be travelling to unfamiliar areas, I’ve got my ‘home’ with me.

Calves are burning, knees hurt and legs feel like Jello. After a major hike, the body is asking, “Why the torture?” How to deal with post-hiking pain and recovery is something every hiker faces as they advance to more strenuous levels.

For day-hikers, backpackers and trail runners, after-care for pain is a very real part of the sport. Injuries and lactic acid build-up can keep a hiker sidelined for days and make the simple act of going down stairs excruciating. Many precautions can be taken to ensure less stress to legs, knees and feet during a hike, but as every seasoned hiker knows, it’s not going uphill that’s the problem it’s coming down!

Hiking down a steep descent places additional stress on knees and muscles that have not been conditioned for downhill activity. Joints and tendons become painfully inflamed. And pushing past ones level of ability and distance, increases the production of lactic acid, resulting in a burning feeling in leg muscles. Don’t let pain be a discouraging factor in pursuing higher achievements on the trail. The sense of loftiness felt when reaching the pinnacle of a climb is worth conquering post-hiking pain.

Pre-hiking suggestions to minimize pain:

• Get fitted with sturdy, stable boots or trail running shoes.
• Buy shoes/boots that are at ½; to 1 full size larger than your regular shoe size. After several hours of hiking, feet will swell and need room to expand.
• Wear socks made of Coolmax® for moisture control and to minimize blisters.
• Pre-condition legs weeks before a strenuous hike by doing short hill hikes and strengthening exercises (squats, lunges, step-ups and step-downs). You can also increase your lactic acid threshold and level of fatigue (thereby lowering the occurrence of sore muscles) by increasing your activity level and training at 85%-90% of your maximum heart rate for at least 20 minutes daily.
• Use stretching exercises for problem areas such as hamstring, IT band, etc. to increase flexibility.
• If needed, wear leg braces to stabilize knees and help reduce stress. Neoprene braces can be purchased over the counter at any drug store.
• Stay hydrated and eat carbohydrates and protein during and after the hike. This can help minimize lactic acid build-up.
• Use a hiking pole(s) to redistribute weight, help with balance and reduce stress on the knees.
• Learn the technique of heel-to-toe walking so as to make full contact with heel to the ground.
• Try to control uphill and downhill progression so as not to bound, go too fast, or “pound” the trail. Slightly bend knees when descending. Make a conscious effort to keep weight centered with the knee tracking directly over the toe (no twisting in or out). An automatic response to descending a hill is to lean backwards, rather than stay centered. This can result in injury, such as IT Band
• Friction Syndrome.

Post-hiking suggestions for dealing with pain:

• Ice painful or swollen joints and muscles immediately after a hike. If pain persists, continue at intervals for up to 48 hours. Icing will decrease inflammation, reduce swelling and numb pain.
• Rest after the hike, but don’t become immobile. Walking or light exercise will keep blood flowing and increase recovery.
• Gentle stretches will help stiff, tight muscles.
• Massage painful muscles with long, smooth movements.
• If needed, use a nonsteroidal antiinflammatory drug (NSAID), such as ibuprofen, to reduce pain and inflammation.
• Some hikers benefit from alternating ice packs and heat therapy. This should only be done after 48 hours and inflammation has subsided. Applying heat immediately after a hike will increase swelling and prolong recovery time.

Disclaimer: This information is not intended as a substitute for professional medical treatment or consultation. Always consult with your physician in the event of a serious injury.

Have you caught the bug yet? The desire to climb a mountain with a summit rising at least 14,000 feet above sea level has reached near-epidemic proportions in Colorado, with estimates of roughly 500,000 hikers and climbers making their way up a Fourteener each year.

The good news is that a number of Colorado’s 54 Fourteeners can be climbed by anyone with good stamina and overall fitness. That’s also the bad news. People who know little about the special risks of hiking in the mountains often set out along a well-marked and well-traveled trail up a Fourteener ill-equipped for the venture. Hypothermia and dehydration are two of the dangerous and all-too-common problems that might await hikers who aren’t prepared.

It was the Fourth of July weekend, and we headed to the mountains, escaping Denver’s 95 degree heat. As we approached the summit above tree-line (trees can’t grow above a certain elevation; in Colorado that elevation is around 11,000 to 12,000 feet), it began to snow. Hard. And blow. Harder. We donned our wind pants and warm coats, hats and gloves, and continued to the top.

There we found a hiker who had passed us on the trail earlier in the day. He was dressed in running shorts and a light shirt, wearing tennis shoes (which were quite wet by now), and carrying a small, empty water bottle. He was shivering violently. People began bundling him up in their extra warm clothing, giving him food and water, and then helped him back down the trail.

Here are a few basic “rules” to remember before heading up that mountain trail (even when hiking up peaks lower than 14,000 feet):

• Bring along extra layers of clothing. No matter how beautiful and warm the weather is when you start out, temperatures can plummet and you can get soaked if a thunderstorm moves in.
• Thunderstorms are extremely common in Colorado’s mountains during summer afternoons. Plan your day so you can be leaving the summit and heading back down the trail no later than noon. Watch the sky for cloud build-up, and turn around earlier if a storm seems to be forming early.
• Carry plenty of water, and drink frequently. Even in cool weather, you’ll probably need to drink a minimum of 2 quarts of water during your hike to and from the summit of one of the “easier” Fourteeners. That amount of water is on the low side for many people.
• Some of the other “essentials” to bring along: food (snack frequently — don’t let yourself run out of “fuel”), map & compass (and know how to use them), fire starter, flashlight or headlamp, 1st Aid kit, sunglasses, and sunscreen.
• Hike with a buddy. That cold, wet guy was lucky that other people came along to help him. Imagine what would have happened if he had been alone for another 30 minutes!

These tips are just a start to help you hike more safely in the mountains. Consider joining a hiking club before tackling higher peaks in Colorado. You’ll find some new hiking partners, learn more outdoor skills, and probably have a great time to boot.

Let’s head for the hills!

Several of the “easier” Colorado Fourteeners are:

• Mount Sherman
• Quandary Peak
• Mount Elbert
• Mount Evans
• Mount Belford