This holiday season, consider one of these great gift ideas when shopping for anyone who loves to spend time outdoors. And while you’re at it, pick something up for yourself.

New from Berkley (http://www.berkley-fishing.com), Gulp! Alive! is the next generation in fish-catching technology that gives the angler in your life a way to catch fish without the hassles of live bait. Voted Best Soft Lure at 2007 ICAST, Gulp! Alive! is available in nine shapes and a bevy of colors for a multitude of fresh- and saltwater applications as well as a spray attractant that can be applied to any bait. Sold in both quart and pint buckets, Gulp! Alive! baits are suspended in powerful Gulp! liquid making them 20 percent more effective than even first-generation Gulp! baits. (800-228-4272, $8.99-$39.99)

A tried-and-true design and careful craftsmanship make the Smith & Wesson (http://www.smith-wesson.com) 1000 Series semiautomatic shotguns the new choice for hunters, recreational shooters and personal defense. Among the lightest weight and most reliable self-loading shotguns on the market, the new 1000 Series are durable, capable of handling today’s hardest-recoiling loads and come in both 12 and 20 gauge and 29 separate configurations to satisfy the needs of discriminating shooters. Between Nov. 1, 2007 and Jan. 31, 2008, purchase any new 1000 Series shotgun from a participating dealer and receive five Trulock specialty choke tubes or purchase a Smith & Wesson Model 22A for $49. (800-331-0852, $650-$925)

If there’s anything that outdoors enthusiasts love more than camping and cooking out, it’s a new gadget. New from Coleman (http://www.coleman.com), the Electronic Radio Cooler brings dad’s two loves together by doubling as a cooler and an AM/FM radio. The 36-quart cooler is built with legendary Coleman quality and has enough room for 46 12-ounce cans plus enough ice to keep them cool. And once the cookout begins, the AM/FM radio features a weather band, clock, alarm, MP3 and headphone jack — all operating on four C batteries. (800-835-3278, $65.00)

This holiday, give the hunters and shooters in your life more access to the sports they love. The National Shooting Sports Foundation (http://www.nssf.org) suggests giving family and friends a membership to a local shooting range, a few hours of range time, a bird hunt at a prime location close to town or across the country, new gear, or a 2008 hunting license. On the Internet, visit http://www.huntandshoot.org for free lists of places to get outdoors, plus many great services for all hunters and shooters.

Serious fishing calls for serious tools. Give your favorite anglers the toughest and most technologically advanced fishing tools this Christmas with the new line of TEC Tools from Berkley (http://www.berkley-fishing.com). From hook sharpeners to fillet knives, digital scales and superline shears, these TEC Tools are suited for the rigors of both serious fresh- and saltwater angling and features ergonomically designed handles, making them easier to hold and use for extended periods of time. The TEC Tool family also includes the Berkley TEC Pistol Grip, voted Best Fishing Accessory at 2007 ICAST. (800-228-4272, $9.99-$99.99)

Give the shooter in your life the ultimate way to display their firearm collection. New from Smith & Wesson (http://www.smith-wesson.com), the Gun Suite is a solid wood gun storage unit that holds up to eight firearms. With adjustable shelves and three drawers for additional storage space, the Gun Suite also features a hand-etched Smith & Wesson logo on each door. Sure to be treasured for generations, the Gun Suite can be locked with a key and is available in five different woods and seven separate finish options. (800-331-0852, $1,880)

Get the most light out your lantern this holiday season without sacrificing a lot of space. The new Exponent 4AA Pack-Away Lantern from Coleman (http://www.coleman.com) weighs just eight ounces and closes to a compact 3.2 inches tall. When darkness comes, the Pack-Away Lantern opens to less than 5 inches tall and offers up to 12 hours of illumination and three different settings to make outdoor activities more enjoyable. Featuring a carabiner clip for easy carrying, the Pack-Away lantern runs on just four AA batteries, making it easy and inexpensive to operate. (800-835-3278, $34.99)

Cold-season hunters and angler will have a decisive advantage over icy temperatures when heading out into the field this year. Whether facing cool, damp mornings on opening day or bone-chilling north winds, the new ThermoLogic (www.thermologicgear.com) line of clothing includes hats, gloves, vests and jackets and will provide users with the latest technology in heated apparel. When wearing the new ThermoLogic line from NTA Enterprises, archaic wires and bulky batteries are things of the past. Unlike other electrically powered, heated garments, the technology behind ThermoLogic is applied directly on the apparel, resulting in a product that is durable, washable and practical. (877-945-6837, $35.00-$250.00)

Feed the ones you love with recipes from Ranger Boats co-founder, Nina Wood. Nina’s favorite recipes from her own collection as well as from her family and friends, plus some of her favorite outdoor cooking tips and some stories and wisdom collected during an eventful lifetime in Arkansas’ Ozark Mountains are all collected in a cookbook entitled Nina’s Favorite Recipes. Copies of the book are available for $9.95 plus $2.50 shipping. To order, call the Forrest L. Wood Outdoor Sports Gallery at (870) 453-3210.

There are many different ways that you can carry your binoculars. A lot of people assume that carrying them by hand is the only option, but they are mistaken. There are tons of binocular accessories that can help you carry them around far more comfortably than you can by hand. Here is a quick list of the most popular methods of carrying binoculars.

The Best and Worst Ways to Carry Your Binoculars

1. By Hand: You can always carry your binoculars in your hand. While popular, this probably isn’t the best way. When carrying them in your hand, you run the chance of dropping them or scratching the lenses. This is never a good thing. If you are carrying them in your hand, maybe consider putting some lens caps over the lenses. This will cut down on the chances of having your lenses scratched, although it will do nothing about dropping them.

2. Neck Strap: The trusted neck strap is one of the most popular ways to carry binoculars. A neck strap is cheap, but if you are carrying around your binoculars for long stretches of time, you run the risk of your neck becoming tired. While the neck strap is probably not the best way to carry around binoculars, it’s way better than carrying them by hand.

3. Harness: The harness is a good way to carry your binoculars. This handy device straps to your chest and your binoculars are then strapped to it. This means that the binoculars are always in easy reach, and your neck won’t get tired, like it would with the neck strap.

4. In A Case: They make several different types of cases. There are soft cases made of leather and other materials and there are hard cases made out of things like metal or wood. It’s far better to carry your binoculars in a hard case, because it limits the chances of damaging your binoculars. If all you have is a soft case, it’s better than carrying them by hand.

5. Binocular Strap: Binocular straps looks similar to a purse. The straps go around your waist and over one shoulder. The binoculars themselves are held in a pouch that sits near the small of your back. Women like this type of harness, as well as bow hunters because it keeps your chest free of obstructions.

6. On A Helmet: Some military and hunting binoculars are small enough that they can be strapped to a helmet making them popular because they can be stored out of the way.

7. Floater Carrying Strap: They now make a neck strap that is equipped with a floatation device. This accessory is very useful with marine binoculars, boaters or people out on the water. But, like the neck strap, your neck may get tired and the added weight of the floatation device doesn’t help this much.

8. Mount: You can mount your binoculars in your car, boat or anywhere else you may use them. That way, you don’t have to really carry them at all, but instead let the inanimate object do the carrying for you. They even make car window mounts!

9. Back Pack: Many people put their binoculars in their backpack. This isn’t a good way to carry them. If they aren’t in a case, they may get damaged. If they are in a case, they aren’t in easy reach. By the time you get them out of your backpack, whatever it is that piqued your interest may have moved or is gone.

Well, we’ve covered the question of how to carry your binoculars. We’ve listed some of the best and worst ways of doing it. How to carry your binoculars is totally up to you, but how you do it could affect how successful you are with your binoculars.

As I scan the hillside roughly 3 miles away I notice movement to the right of the spotting scope.
After returning from my Eastern Oregon Elk hunts I reflect back to the reasons we had success? I can honestly say that the use of quality optics was the number one reason for the number of elk we had the oppurtunity to hunt.
I just recently purchased the new Leupold gold ring spotting scope and also the 10×42 gold ring bino’s, I can honestly say that 4-5 hours a day were spent peering though those fine optics. I know it is hard to keep looking through optics when you have not seen anything, On one day I spent 4 hours glassing the same distant slope that I saw elk on the previous day, after that time if you had not known the Elk were there the night before it would be hard to keep at it.
Some of the tricks that helped me were not looking for whole bodies of Elk but little bits of them. Legs,horns or just a flash of hide to give away there presence.
Have faith in your ability and keep the glasses to your eyes.

The only thing worse than setting up a tent in the rain is setting up a tent in the rain in the dark. That is a lesson I learned all too well while trying to set up camp in the middle of the night during a cold New England thunderstorm. Having the right camping lantern can be the difference between a camping trip you’ll never forget and one you wish you could.

A good camping lantern is usually one of two styles — gas or battery — and the right one for you depends on the type of camping you’ll be doing, the amount of gear you can afford to take, and what you’ll be doing while you’re camping.

Gas Camping Lanterns

Gas-powered lanterns typically provide the brightest light of the two types, though most are adjustable so you can conserve fuel when you don’t need as much light. They usually do better in the cold than do battery-powered lanterns. There are a number of different types of fuel available, including propane, butane, dual fuel, and kerosene. If you live in an area where white gas (butane, propane, etc) is not readily available, dual fuel lanterns are probably the best option because they allow you use unleaded gas. You usually can’t go wrong if you choose a lantern that uses the same fuel as your camp stove.

Though it may seem obvious to most, it is worth mentioning that all of these fuels are extremely flammable, and any time you change or refill tanks you should be far away from any open flames or flame sources. Also, because of the nature of system, gas camping lanterns can become very hot, and while in use they should be kept out of children’s easy reach.

Necessary equipment besides the lantern and fuel includes spare mantels and a way to light the lantern. Most new lanterns come with electric ignitions, so you won’t have to worry about including matches or a barbecue lighter in your supplies for the lantern (don’t forget them if you plan on having a fire or cooking something!). You’ll need to get a protective carrying case as most lanterns don’t come with one included. Optional equipment includes a lantern reflector to redirect light escaping out of the back of the lantern, and a stand to hang your lantern in a central place in camp. Gas camping lanterns are not practical options if you’ll be hiking to where you’ll be camping, so you’ll need to consider another lighting option.

Battery-Powered Camping Lanterns

Battery-powered camping lanterns make up in convenience anything they may lose in other categories. With a little bit of searching you’ll be able to find lanterns that use every size and type of battery, and you will be hard pressed to find a gas station or convenient store that doesn’t sell batteries. Though not as bright as their gas-powered counterparts, battery-powered lanterns put out plenty of light. On many you can adjust the brightness.

One of their biggest advantages is that they are safe to take inside tents, cars, or other enclosed space. You should never take a gas-burning lantern into a tent or car because of the risk of fire. Depending on the type of light bulb, battery-powered lanterns don’t ever get very hot, so they are safer to use around children. They don’t do as well in the cold as gas lanterns, so if you’re planning any cold weather camping trips, you’ll need to consider whether you should have a gas lantern available.

Battery-powered camping lanterns, though sometimes less bulky than gas lanterns, typically are a little larger than you would ever want to carry with you on a hike. Some flashlights feature a lantern option — you sacrifice quite a bit in the way of brightness, but you lose a lot of the bulk, which makes them good hiking options. Additional equipment you should have on hand in addition to the lantern includes extra batteries, spare light bulbs, and optionally a lantern stand that you can put in a central spot in camp.

Which Brand Should I Get?

The brand of lantern you should get depends on what you need and how much you’re willing to spend. There are a lot of quality camping lanterns out there. Some have a few more bells and whistles than others. Some cost more than others. The best way to shop for a lantern is first, decide which type of lantern you’ll need; and second, shop around for the best price. You’ll usually find the best deals online, though retail stores and outdoors warehouses also have great prices sometimes. The most important thing to remember is to get out and enjoy the great outdoors, even if it’s dark.

Binoculars are wonderful pieces of equipment that can enhance many of our daily activities including, birding, action sports, hunting, and even astronomy. Essentially binoculars take a distant image, enlarge it through the use of lenses for viewing, all while remaining small and light enough to be mobile.

The actual makeup of most binoculars is fairly straightforward and simple. You have the lenses at the end of the barrel called the objective lens that gathers the light from the distant image and focuses it on the lens closest to your eyes for viewing. Binoculars are really two small telescopes put side by side so that you can view the desired image with both eyes instead of just one. This imparts some measure of depth of field, much more so than with a single scope.

When selecting a pair of binoculars you will immediately find that two numbers are used to describe their capability. These numbers are often expressed as “6 X 30″ or something similar. Let’s break the code so you will know what these numbers mean.

The first number refers to the magnification power of the binoculars, or in other words how many times the image is magnified. So if the number is 6, that means that the image that you view through the lens is magnified 6 times it’s normal siZe.

The second number has to do with the size of the objective lens at the end of the binoculars.It’s good to know this number because the larger the diameter of the objective lens, usually the more light will be let in for viewing the distant image.

Now, let’s put this information in use in the real world. You may think that it’s best to just get the highest magnification that you can get for binoculars, but this is not true. At some point, hand holding the binoculars will affect the clarity of a highly magnified image and the resulting shake will render the magnification benefits useless. Generally speaking, anything above ten times magnification should be mounted on a tripod instead of handheld. So if you are planning to use binoculars for activities that do not allow you to be able to bring along a sturdy tripod, you probably want to stay with a pair of binoculars with 4 -7 times magnification.

As far as light gathering properties are concerned, if you plan on using your binoculars in any kind of low light situation whether indoors, or at times of day when there is low available light outdoors, then you need to have a large objective lens, usually 30 or above, to make as much use of available light as possible.

Finally, consider the weight of the binoculars before buying them. If weight will be a consideration for activities such as hiking, then perhaps plastic lenses will be best that are specially coated to produce a high quality, sharp image. These can be more costly than glass lenses, but they are considerably lighter. Glass lenses usually make for much better optics and clearer images at a lower overall cost, but they can also be more fragile.

Generally speaking, more expensive pairs of binoculars have more atention paid to fit and finish and will stand up to more vigorous use, but if you only plan to occasionally use your binoculars, then a less expensive pair will no doubt work fine. Also, remember that after the purchase you should be sure to protect your investment with a suitable binoculars case.

For years I wondered how big the bucks were that were roaming our property in the dark of night. After all, I knew that monster bucks had to be eluding me during the daylight hours only to roam the woods at night. In an attempt to reveal these mysterious nocturnal monsters I purchased a scouting camera in 1996.

After a couple of years of using the camera I was very disappointed. The camera worked fine and we had many pictures of deer, but they were the same does and spike bucks that I was seeing during the day. Something must be wrong; I knew that there had to be big bucks stalking the hillsides at night. After all, everyone always said “you know there is a big one in there somewhere”.

After many rolls of film and an equal number of anxious trips to retrieve developed pictures, I came to realize that there simply were not any mystical trophy bucks roaming our property.

This scouting camera was the proof that I needed to convince myself that the problem was not nocturnal deer but it was actually a deer management problem.

In the eight years since that initial camera purchase I have gotten pictures of bucks that I had not seen, but this wasn’t until after I had implemented a quality deer management plan on our property. One thing is certain, if mature bucks are not on your property you will not get a picture of them and you will definitely not see them.

You can use your scouting camera pictures to get approximate buck to doe ratios simply by observing the ratios that are in the pictures. Also it is easier to estimate the quality of the bucks on your property once you have a picture that you can study. You will also get pictures of the other wildlife that make their homes on your property.

With a scouting camera you can practically perform 24 hour scouting, especially with the new digital scouting cameras. For those of us who work it is difficult to spend a lot of time scouting, but the camera can be your eyes.

A scouting camera cannot find bucks that are not there but they do a real good job of letting you know what is.

Camera Placement

Where do you put your scouting camera? This is one of the fun parts of having a scouting camera. Deciding where to put the camera is just like deciding where to hunt.

The easiest way to get pictures of whitetail deer is to have something that attracts them. If you do this, a camera can take a lot of pictures in a short period of time. Be careful of your delay settings on your camera or you could get a lot of pictures of the same deer.

It is interesting to put the camera up at various places such as: well used trails, scrapes, rubs, food plots and minerals licks. I’m sure that you can think of a few places where you would like to know how much deer activity takes place.

Most scouting cameras have the ability to place the date and time on the photograph. This can be very helpful in determining the time of day the deer show up at your particular hotspot. I use it to let me know what time I have to be in the woods in the mornings so that I don’t have to get out of bed any earlier than I have to.

Set Up Tips

There are a few things that will help ensure that you will not be disappointed with your scouting camera.

• Try not to place the camera where it is facing into either the rising or setting sun.
• Clear weeds away from the front of the camera so that you do not get pictures of weeds swaying in the breeze.
• Do not set your camera up too close or far away from where you expect the deer to travel. A camera set up on a tree within 3 feet of the trail is too close whereas most flashes cannot reach much beyond 30 feet or less.
• Fresh batteries! It is very disappointing to find out that you didn’t get many pictures because your batteries have died. Rechargeable batteries are gaining popularity lately; I’m having good success using them with my digital scouting camera.
• I advise buying a scouting camera that has a locking device. It would be too easy for someone to walk away with your camera if it is not locked.
• I am using a digital scouting camera for the first time this year and highly recommend them. There are many advantages to the digital camera, in particular the capability of viewing your pictures right away.

The exciting part is seeing a picture of a nice buck that you didn’t know was on your property. These pictures help you get out of bed on those cold mornings and make you stay in your stand longer when you get bored. Get yourself a scouting camera and have fun with it.

You can read more about our experienced with scouting cameras and our latest digital adventures at our Web site.

Outdoor enthusiasts love to guess about all sorts of things. We guess how many stars are in the Milky Way, we guess how fast a deer runs or we might even guess about how long it will be until that big, dark cloud dumps rain us. But there are times when guessing in the backcountry just doesn’t get the job done. Specialty gear is available to help us determine how far we’ve hiked — and in what direction — and other tools are available to help take the guesswork out of purifying water. But there is a another useful tool overlooked by many avid backcountry visitors — the rangefinder.

Rangefinders are used in a number of commercial applications — surveying, mapping, mining, etc. — however for our purposes we will be discussing the portable laser rangefinder used by outdoor sportsmen and sportswomen.

Laser rangefinders calculate the distance to an object by bouncing a laser beam off of the object and measuring the lapsed time until the beam returns. Since the calculation is based upon the return of the beam, it stands to reason that a more reflective object can be measured at a greater distance than a less reflective object. Readily available models are accurate to within one yard and have the ability to measure distances to reflective targets up to 1500 yards away — that’s nearly a mile — and they’re accurate under nearly any condition.

The past few years have seen a number of technology advances across all rangefinder price ranges. Many models are lightweight, are easily operated with one hand, can measure through rain or snow, can see through nearby clutter, function well in low light, contain integrated optical magnification and are 100% waterproof. Additionally there have been vast improvements lately to lens coatings, battery life and information display.

If distances are important to your activity, you need a rangefinder. Backcountry features — rocks, trees, lakes, mountains, ravines, cliffs — have a tendency to distort one’s depth perception. It is easy to misjudge even short distances. The most widely used application of rangefinders is in measuring shot distances by hunters. Whether you are hunting waterfowl or elk, distance to your game is the most critical factor in placing an effective shot. Bow hunters would never hunt without their rangefinder, the difference between 45 yards and 50 yards for a bow hunter is the difference between success and failure. Rangefinders are also used by golfers for determining club selection, by hikers to determine the best route to travel and by campers, boaters and wildlife observers for a wide variety of distance measuring purposes.

The next time you plan to spend time in our wondrous backcountry consider taking a rangefinder along with you. If you’ve never looked through a rangefinder, you don’t know what you’re missing. With a quality rangefinder, guessing distances just became old news. Use this information and you’ll Get It Right The First Time.

Get Outdoors!

Many nights in the backcountry are far from dark. A bright moon and a sky full of stars can throw off enough light to allow for reading a book, but add cloud cover, mountains or trees and it gets dark awfully fast. When you need to see in the dark, you have two choices — you either turn on a light, or use one of the many available night vision devices (NVD). The NVD could be the ultimate backcountry toy.

Like choosing many other types of technology, choosing the correct NVD is all about how you are going to use it. When most people think of night vision capabilities, they think about spy movies, the military or law enforcement — applications where it is vital for the good guys to see without being seen by the bad guys. A drop in pricing over the past few years has made a NVD affordable for campers, hunters, hikers and a wide variety of other outdoor enthusiasts. However, high-end devices used for specialized purposes remain quite expensive.

There are two broad categories of NVD. Image Enhancement devices collect small amounts of light and amplify them to the point where the human eye can observe the object. Thermal Imaging devices capture the high end of the infrared light spectrum which is emitted as heat by objects. Image Enhancement devices will provide a much crisper image with detail while Thermal Imaging devices show regions of heat. Currently, five Generations of NVD exist. Generations 0 and 1 are less expensive and typically produce a poor image quality. Generations 2, 3 and 4 have increasingly better image quality and an equally increasing price to match.

Applications for NVD are actually quite diverse. They include but are not limited to: military, law enforcement, hunting, wildlife observation, surveillance, security, navigation, hidden-object detection, spelunking and entertainment. NVD can be found on helicopters, rifles, camcorders, cameras, boats…just about anywhere. A new craze found at up-scale gatherings is called “A Dinner in the Dark Party” where guests wear an NVD throughout their dining experience.

Many outdoor enthusiasts are beginning to discover the wonderful world that can be found after darkness falls in the backcountry. If you like to camp, hike or hunt, chances are good an NVD will be perfect for you. Use this information and you’ll Get It Right The First Time.

Get Outdoors!

We are asked nearly every day: “What are your best binoculars?” And every day we answer: “How do you plan on using them?” We are not trying to be evasive with our answer, but the truth of the matter is — the best binoculars for one purpose may be the worse binoculars for another. We want you to Get It Right The First Time.

Understanding your application is paramount in determining the best fit — for you. Although there are many other specifications and qualities which determine the usefulness of binoculars, we will discuss in this article the primary characteristics for determining the best fit for your application. But before we show you the list, we should go over some basic terminology.

What do the numbers on binoculars mean? All sporting optics (binoculars, spotting scopes, night vision goggles, etc.) use the same nomenclature to describe important features. As an example, a pair of binoculars may have 10×42mm listed as a technical specification. But what does this mean? The “10″ refers to the magnification power of the binoculars — that is — objects viewed will appear to be 10 times closer than when they are viewed by the naked eye. The second number in our example is “42mm.” This refers to the diameter, in millimeters, of the objective lenses on the binoculars. The objective lenses are located on the end of the binoculars furthest away from your eye when viewing. As with the aperture of a camera lens, the size of objective lens determines the amount of light that can enter your binoculars. If your binoculars are going to be used during low light (hunting and astronomy are good examples) you had better have large objective lenses.

Another important number describing binoculars is called field-of-view. A field-of-view of 390′ indicates that the width of the sight picture is 390 feet at a distance of 1000 yards. Field-of-view is determined by magnification and the focal lengths of the objective and eyepiece lenses. More magnification always means less field-of-view. This specification is sometimes expressed in degrees. A field-of-view of 6.5 degrees equates to 341′ (6.5 times 52.5 equals 341).

How well your binoculars will serve you in low light conditions is described as Twilight Performance. Although many things, such as overall design and quality of glass impact this specification, magnification and objective lens diameter are the chief components. A quick way to determine the Twilight Performance of binoculars is to multiply the magnification power (first number) times the objective lens diameter (second number). The higher the result, the better the Twilight Performance. As an example, 10×42mm binoculars will have better Twilight Performance than 8×50mm binoculars (420 versus 400).

Now that we understand some basic terminology, here is “What to Know When Buying Binoculars.”

While compact binoculars weigh as little as a pound, by using them you will undoubtedly sacrifice performance. If performance is your main consideration, full sized binoculars are preferred. Anything weighing over about 1.5 pounds will get heavy fairly fast. Use a binocular support system to evenly distribute the weight across your shoulders instead of using a strap around your neck.

The amount of light available while using your binoculars will determine -more than any other consideration — which binoculars are best for you. Low light uses such as hunting, birding and astronomy require larger objective lenses.

The distance you will be from the object you view will determine the magnification power required in a pair of binoculars. If your application is bird watching, theater or sporting events, a low powered binocular will suffice in most cases. But if you’re into astronomy, you’ll need a high powered pair.

The minimum focal point in binocular terminology refers to how near an object can be to you and be still be viewed in focus. This tends to be important for birding but not so important for most other uses.

Binoculars with a magnification power greater than 10x (and without a stability feature) will be difficult to hold steady. This becomes important when viewing the night sky or distant mountains. A tripod may be a good thing to have if you’re using binoculars with high magnification.

Using your binoculars outdoors will usually subject them to moisture. Waterproof binoculars are preferred for all marine, hunting, birding and other nature related activities.

The greater the magnification, the narrower the field-of-view. If field-of-view is important to you, don’t purchase the most powerful binoculars you can find. This becomes very important when viewing objects that move quickly such as antelope, race horses, shooting stars or race cars.

As with almost everything else in life, with binoculars you get what you pay for. There are binoculars that cost under $10 and others which cost in excess of $2,500. My experience says you will need to spend at least $250 for a pair of binoculars worth having.

There is no such thing as “one-size-fits-all” when it comes to sporting optics. If you have multiple uses for binoculars, you will most likely end up with multiple pairs of them — and that’s O.K.

Your understanding of these few simple tips will not only help you in acquiring the correct binoculars for your application, but they will also help you with successful viewing — no matter what you’re looking at. Use this information and you’ll Get It Right The First Time.

Get Outdoors!

Choosing Your Tent

Here are a few hints when choosing the tent just right for you or your family.

• Tents that are advertised as one person are rarely big enough for one person.
• Two person tents are usually comfortable for just one person, a three person tent is comfortable for two people and so on.
• If you do not pick something large enough, you will find yourself cramped , claustrophobic and uncomfortable.
• Pick something that will give you a little room to move and some space for some of your gear as well.
• Each person needs about 3 by 7 feet to stretch out. You will need extra room to dress etc.
• Remember, if the weather is not good, you will be stuck in whatever you have picked. You don’t want to be sitting cramped and hunched over feeling miserable.
• In deciding on what you need, decide whether you will be summer or winter camping, and whether you will be backpacking .
• Tents are not waterproof. They are made of breathable ripstop nylon. It allows your sweat and breath to evaporate. This means you need a rainfly. They are waterproof. It fits over the roof of the tent and is meant to carry away rainwater from the tent sides.
• Make sure the fly is large enough to substantially cover the tent walls.
• Applying a sealant to the tent seams is a good idea. Apply sealer as needed throughout the tents life.
• Most tents have a fine mesh screen over the door and window designed to keep out insects.
• All netting is not alike. Standard netting is made of nylon. Dacron is a finer mesh to discourage even the smallest bugs.
• They are usually zippered at the entrance with a flap that zippers over the door and window for privacy.
• Because of the nature of the fabric used in making tents, being porous, very few tents are designed to keep you warm. They are designed to protect you from the weather and from insects. They will protect you from the wind and rain, snow and sun.
• To care for your tent, nylon is virtually maintenance free. The only thing that needs to be done is sealant occasionally.
• Of course never store your tent when it is wet, or even slightly damp. Always set it up when you are finished your trip and dry it out completely.
• Also sponge off any dirt or mud inside using a very mild liquid detergent or a baking soda and water solution.
• Be sure to make any repairs if you have had the misfortune to burn or damage your tent in some way. You can buy repair kits that come in various colors and are easy to use. Store your tent in a cool, dry place in its storage bag.

Dome Tents

The basic style of the dome tent is hexagonal. The fabric usually used is nylon. The weight is about two and one-half to seven and one-half pounds.

The tent is usually free-standing or self supporting. This means no stakes or lines are needed under normal circumstances.

However you should never leave it unoccupied without staking it down because the wind can send this lightweight tent tumbling off.

The dome tent is great for backpackers and canoeists. Its the choice of winter campers and mountaineers in larger sizes. The reason is because of its aerodynamic shape.

It resists gusts of wind well and is easy to set up and dismantle. The only problem with this type of tent is that it is not well ventilated. Moisture tends to gather at the top of the dome.

Tunnel Tent

This type of tent is primarily a backpacker’s shelter. It can weigh as little as one and one-half pounds.

The type of material used is generally nylon. It is not very spacious. The advantage of this tent is how compact it becomes.

It can be rolled into a tight bundle no larger than a football. It is a free standing tent, not needing any lines or stakes unless a fly is added.

It is lightweight, which makes it ideal for the backpacker or canoeist. Because of its design the wind flows off of it easily and makes it great for winter camping.

It has a screened opening at one end and can be closed against severe weather. It is easily erected and dismantled. It also ventilates well.

The A-Frame Tent

This tent is used primarily by the backpacker. The frame of this tent can be either fitted into sleeves or standing independently of the shelter.

Gone are the days of the upright pole that used to hold it up in the middle of the opening. They are generally made out of nylon. Weights vary from about 3 pounds to about 6.

These tents are ideal for canoe trips, climbers , fishermen and hunters. They are relatively lightweight and spacious.

A vestibule can be added to the front opening adding very little weight and adding an extra 10 to 20 square feet. This makes it ideal for storing your gear and giving you extra sleeping area.